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Blood-Shot Minnow
All pictures are Mouse-over.

Mark Bachmann To Provide Program at Clackamas Fly Fishers Club
Mark Bachmann with a dorado... Title of Program: "Year End Report"
2006 has been a year of grand successes, from a world record Yellowtail, Dorado Blitz, Gullible Trout, grabby Steelhead and Tarpon.
This program takes you through the seasons and many species of fish in many locations.  The 55-minute program is accompanied by PowerPoint projection & Video.  Besides pictures of some fairly large fish and grinning anglers, how-to and where-to tips will be provided.
Meeting at: High Rocks Pub, Gladstone, OR
Presentation starts around 7:00pm, Tuesday, December 19
See you there!

Abel's improvement upon perfection.

Abels get even tougher...

The most significant change at Abel for 2007 is a new "Double Pawl" system in the internal mechanism of Super Series reels #6 and larger reels and Big Game Series reels #3 and larger.  We never knew any of the old single pawl reels to break down.  So this insignificant change becomes very significant in the way that the folks at Abel think, "Eliminate problems before they happen!"  We have tested a couple of their larger reels that were built with double pawls a couple of years ago. You're going to like the new sound.

Abel Super
Abel Super, Big Game and X-Stream Reels
 25% OFF !!! Limited To Stock On Hand
These are all brand new, top quality reels.  Abel has always produced the bench mark reels that all other reels are compared to.  They have changed very little since the first ones appeared many years ago.  That is because the design was perfected before it came to market.  This year Abel added an extra pawl to it's internal mechanism.  We never new any of the old single pawl reels to break down, but now they are being cleared out to make room for the new double pawl models we have coming.

Model & Description

Price To Top
Super 10, Platinum Color, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $740

Super 11, Platinum Color, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $770

Super 11, Gold Color, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $770

Super 11, Black Coral Color, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $720

Big Game 2, Black Coral Color, Ported Back, Ported Spool, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $445

Big Game 3, Black Coral Color, Solid Back, Ported Spool, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $455

Big Game 4N, Black Coral Color, Ported Back, Ported Spool, Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $620

10/11/12 X-Stream, This is essentially a Big Game 3 without all of the extra polishing.  It is a very rugged reel. Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $390

12/13 X-Stream, This is essentially a Big Game 4 without all of the extra polishing.  It is a very rugged reel. Complete with original box and reel case Reg. $420


Last minute Christmas shoppers can always get a:
Electronic Gift Certificate from The Fly Fishing Shop
Purchasing Information

Product # Description Name and e-mail of recipient & Amount  
GIFTCERT Gift Certificate


An e-mail with detailed instructions on how to use their Electronic Gift Certificate will be sent to the recipient of the Gift Certificate.

Tying Instructions For The Blood-Shot Minnow
Click For Larger View.

We were introduced to the "blood-shot minnow concept", by Captain Bob Marvin out of Naples, Florida.  After spending five days fishing with him in the Everglades, and after catching 80% of our snooks, jacks and tarpons on the Blood-Shot Minnow, it became one of our favorite flies for fishing black-water creeks and mangrove edges.  It can be effective any where schools of predatory fish are intercepting schools of bait fish.  These flies represent bait fish which have been injured by impact from larger fish.  Often blood collects beneath the

transparent skin and scales when a baitfish is bruised.  Instead of turning dark color like humans, many bait fish turn red or pink.  Wounded baitfish often turns pearlescent glittery pink. At the exact point of impact, blood is much more prominent; most usually near the head.  This phenomenon has been know for years by lure makers.  Nearly every series of bass and saltwater plugs has a red and white model.  Captain Bob's fly was tied like the one portrayed here, except the collar was made from bubblegum pink rabbit strip.  

This snook was caught with a Bloo-Shot Minnow...

Captain Raul Castenada advised us that their favorite tarpon fly for the Campeche, Mexico area was white with a red collar.  Our pattern is a cross between Bob's and Raul's.  It has proven to be very effective on both tarpon and snook.  I would advise however, that you tie some with a collar that is only pink and leave out the red.  Some types of baitfish don't get the red spot where the impact occurred.  Often minor details like this can make a difference in how many fish you hook.

Blood-Shot Minnow Tool and Material List
For this fly you will need the following items:

Click For Larger View.

Bobbin with tread
Hair Stacker
Hackle Pliers
Saltwater Hooks
Zap-A-Gap Super Glue
White Bucktail
Pearl Flashabou
Fluo. Pink Krystal Flash
Fluo. Pink Saddle Hackle
Red Saddle Hackle

Pattern: Blood-Shot Minnow
Hook: TMC 600SP, #2-#1/0
Thread: pink Danville 210 denier flat waxed
Tail: White bucktail twice the hook length with pearl Flashabou and fluo. pink Krystal Flash
Collar: Hot pink saddle hackle, (with red saddle hackle in front optional).

Click For Larger View.

Place the hook in your vise, making sure the shank is level.  If you intend that your vise is going to be used in the rotary mode, be sure the shank lines up with the center of rotation.  Wrap a short, thin foundation of thread onto the rear 1/3rd of the hook, trim of the tag end and coat these wraps with a thin, but penetrating layer of Zap-A-Gap. This will guarantee that the fly will never turn on the hook.  For maximum durability, all layers of material should be penetrated with enough Zap-A-Gap to stick to stick to the layer under it.

Click For Larger View.

When you select bucktail for this fly, take it from the upper 2/3rds of the tail.  Hair on the lower 1/3rd of the tail will be coarser than you will want.  Stack & sort the bucktail so it is fairly even for length.  When your bundle of bucktail is prepared, it should be about 5-times larger at the base than the diameter of the hook shank.  Position the bucktail so that it is slightly in excess of twice as long as the hook.  I use the swivel screw on my Renzetti Master Vise a a gauge for the length of the hair. Tie the bundle on with a narrow band of thread.

Click For Larger View.

Leave the ends of the hair long so they can be tapered with your scissors.  Clip at an angle, the top and both sides.  This taper will allow all other materials to be added added without bumps or drop-offs. This will also enable the fly to be finished with a very small head.  The forward half of the hook shank is left bare so that a shock tippet on your leader can be snelled directly onto the hook

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Tarpon and many other game fish have teeth that tear flies apart in short order.  Adding Zap-A-Gap to the base of the bucktail will make you flies much more durable. Add Zap-A-Gap sparingly, but use enough to penetrate to the foundation thread wraps you have already glued onto the hook. When you removed hair bulk by tapering the forward part of the bucktail, you prepared that area for Zap-A-Gap to penetrate in a very controllable manner.  Wrapping a layer of thread over this wet Zap-A-Gap will help distribute it evenly.

Click For Larger View.

Add five strips of Pearl Flashabou and strips of Fluorescent Pink Krystal flass to each side of the tail.  Cut the strands flashy materials off the hank more than twice as long as the bucktail part of the tail. Be sure you have the right quantity of strands in your bundle. Cutting the strands where they meet the package is the easiest.  Drape them over your tying thread and pull them tight so the ends meet.  Run bundle down to the hook and secure it with a coupel of wraps of thread.  Then pull strands back along each side of the tail and wrap the bases down. 

I do the Flashabou and then the Krystal Flash. Trim the ends slightly beyond the ends of the bucktail, then clip them so the the ends are all uneven.  this will giv the fly more flash and the ends of the flash-strands will look like loosened scales.

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Select a fluorescent pink dyed saddle hackle.  Soft webby hackles that have a lot of fluff at the base give the best action when wet.  Gently pull the fibers back along the butt of the stem and prepare to attach it to the base of the bucktail and flashy materials.  There should be a slight residue of Zap-A-Gap which has leaked up through the bucktail.  This will help secure the hackle stem to the rest of the fly as it is wound forward and tied off.  If you feel that this glue insufficient in volume or is too dry, and think you should add more, be careful.

Click For Larger View.

Adding Zap-A-Gap to this part of the fly is tricky.  If you add too much, it will soak up through the absorbent hackle fibers and they will become ugly and stiff.  It may be hard to tell if fish care about such things, but...  Also if you use very much glue and then then pinch the fly while you are working on it, the hackle fibers are instantly trained in the direction they were pointing at the time.  If you can glue the hackle stems to the rest of the fly and leave the barbules completely natural, then it is a good move.  Use less than 1/2 what you think you

need, then wait a few minutes before the next step.

Click For Larger View.

Wind this hackle forward and tie it off.  Wind the hackle so that it forms a dense collar.  It is best not to not stroke the fibers back as any wet glue will wind up in the wrong place when you touch the fly. A rotating hackle pliers will make your job easier.  If you intend to tie in the optional red hackle, tie off the pink hackle where the barbules are still fairly long.  If only a pink hackle is used, you might want to to use it all.

Click For Larger View.

When you add the red hackle, use the tiniest drop of Zap-A-Gap or none at all.  Zap-A-Gap will make your fly much more durable, but the tie-off area is one that gets handled a lot during the tying process.

Click For Larger View.

It is better to apply the Zap-A-Gap after the head of the fly is finished and the thread has been trimmed off.  Apply a very small drop and let dry over-night.  This picture was shot at very low shutter speed and the glue bottle had to be held in position for too long.  An excess of glue ran out of the bottle and this fly was ruined...and thrown away.  You can notice how all of the red hackle fibers are stuck together.

Click For Larger View.

The construction of this fly involved exactly the right amount of Zap-A-Gap at each step.  Every fiber is secured to the hook with Zap-A-Gap, and every fiber is totally natural and independent.  This fly will catch lots of fish because it will act wounded, but alive, and it is as durable as possible.

The online Fly Tying Instructions offered above, as well as the Scandinavian Tube Fly Tutorial offered in the previous newsletter were were a lot of fun to do. We like doing them.  But, they take a lot of work to put together.  That is probably the only reason other sites don't offer presentations of this quality.  They take a lot of time and time is money.  So give me a clue with some feed-back.  Do you like this kind of information?  Do you find it useful or entertaining? 
Do you want some more?  Do you have ideas you would like to share?

John Newbury at showed me how to do magnified pictures easy. Just click on any picture that has the little magnifying glass and a bigger picture will appear.  Take a look at .  It has some great fly tying tutorials.

The Fly Fishing Shop HOME. The Fly Fishing Shop, Welches, OR

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Fish long & prosper,
Mark Bachmann, Patty Barnes


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